Rachael Reed
Living on a tropical island in the middle of the Caribbean is something I think most people have dreamt about at one time or another. I had always fantasized about it, but I never would have imagined being quarantined on one.
Off the Northern coast of Mainland Honduras, in the Caribbean Sea, lies the virus-free paradise of Roatan, Honduras.
This is the tiny safe haven on which I am currently quarantined.
I say tiny, but Roatan is the largest of the Bay Islands of Honduras.
My first time to this incredible place was almost fifteen years ago. Since then, I've made about three to four trips per year. I have managed to fit in a few weeks each visit between my other travels and work. This time, I've been on Roatan with my partner Charmi and poodle Marlie, since November of 2019; the longest I have ever been on this island or outside of the United States.
While many may dream of living on a tropical island, it turns out that the reality of this dream is a bit different than how travel bloggers and Instagram influencers might make it seem, but it is not any less magical. Learning to adjust to island life full-time took some getting used to. The first month felt pretty lonely and slow, but as time went on,
I learned to slow and I gently ease into island life.
Fast forward to March of this year and I had absolutely fallen in love with my life here. I loved being in nature and began to cherish my calm days. We had found a perfect little house on the beach we were in the process of purchasing, I had made some really incredible friends, and we were spending most days in the sea. We planned to head back to the States after the sale on the house went through, around June.
On Sunday, March 14th, we went to the beach with my family and some friends. That was the first day I remember hearing about and giving any type of conscious thought to COVID-19. We nonchalantly talked about 'the virus', made plans to meet later in the week, and went to bed that night with everything seemingly normal.
That next morning everything changed. All flights were canceled in and out of Roatan. Honduras closed its borders (which are still closed), and the United States issued a Level 4 travel advisory urging all US citizens to return home as soon as possible. As you can imagine, there was a relatively high level of panic here, as there were now over one thousand travelers stuck on Roatan with no way home. After a week or so passed, the government and airlines announced they would send a set number of rescue flights to assist those who were stranded. When I first heard the news, my instinct was to do just as I'd been instructed.
Go home!
"To be safe," I said, we booked flights to Houston, but as the day to leave grew closer, we both felt apprehensive about going back to the States. We ended up rescheduling and booking the very last rescue flight off the island, giving us more time to make our decision. We were packed and ready to go on departure day, but I woke up that morning and just knew I wasn't supposed to go back. So, two hours before our departure, we canceled the flight and stayed here in Roatan.
It was not an easy decision, and it felt a lot bigger when we were making it than it does now.
So, now, I'm here. On the island for an undetermined amount of time. I really had no idea what a pandemic and quarantine would look like in general, much less on an isolated island. Oddly enough, given my nursing background, I had never contemplated a pandemic like this. My imagination always went the more dramatic zombie apocalypse route. In many ways, our quarantine has resembled other places around the world, mainly in regards to restrictions, although Roatan's have been stricter and have lasted quite a bit longer than places like the United States. Here, there are only a handful of tests, and very little, if any, medical equipment to aid in the fight against Covid.
In other ways, I have had a very unique and different experience than most others in the world. None of which would have been possible without this whole mess. Everything I know about the Corona Virus is what I see on the news or read on social media. I've seen many people stuck inside their homes or apartments for days. I really cannot fathom how that would feel. While our restrictions on places where large groups of people gather have been somewhat strict, like restaurants and bars, we still have amazing things we can do outside. This has been what has made my quarantine so special.
Just over two months ago, Roatan was hosting up to seven cruise ships per day. Those ships averaged 3,000 people per ship. You do the math. Now, it's empty. The only people left here are the locals, ex-pats who live here, and a handful of those who have chosen to stay in Roatan to ride out the storm. It seems like overnight my entire adventure here on Roatan changed. It is as though I've traveled back in time to thirty years ago.. except with wifi, electricity, and paved roads, but you know what I mean. I've been an avid traveler for the past twelve years of my life and being able to experience an island in this capacity is something travelers my age can only dream of. I've often thought, "if only I had been born just a few decades sooner," yet now, I get a glimpse of what life here might have been like before we, the travelers, all took over.
None of what I'm experiencing would have been my reality had I listened to the news, my friends, Facebook posts, or even my anxieties. The island has become more magical and more beautiful than it already was. I have started to see things I had never noticed or embraced before. I've been able to walk on some of the most beautiful, white sandy beaches in the world, completely alone. The same beaches that in the past I avoided visiting because of how saturated they had become. I am lucky enough to snorkel and free dive on the second largest reef on our planet when I'm 'bored'. Charmi and I meet up with our neighbors on the beach for drinks, barbecues, and dinners because we have all been quarantined together. We fish and kayak. We go out on boats. We take care of each other. We bake bread for one another. We read, write, and meditate.
It is as though the world has been forced to learn all the lessons I had to learn when I moved to this island. Honestly, that part of this tragedy is awesome. It feels like humanity is reconnecting, like we are once again being compelled to live in community and to rely on one another.
When I zoom out and contemplate what this has all brought me I can see that it is a lot more than beach days, boat rides, and unlimited hammock naps. I've learned that our plans are really pretty laughable most of the time. In the blink of an eye, things can change. It's taught me to place less value on what the next step is and has allowed me to completely enjoy the step I'm taking now.
I realize that I am living an immensely privileged quarantine. This has been one of the greatest experiences of my life and I'm undoubtedly grateful for it. Unfortunately, this is not the reality of many Roatan natives or a majority of the world's population. We volunteer and help those in need the best we can. People here are out of work and struggling to feed their families. Crime is starting to increase, and I can feel the fear slowly start to creep into the minds of those who are here. If this quarantine and my journey to this island have taught me anything it's that we don't always have to listen to that fearful voice..
You don't always have to have a plan.
I still find myself getting flustered or anxious when I see the rest of the world starting to get back to normal life. A slight sense of panic will creep into my mind and I start thinking about when I can go back to the United States. When can I see my friends and family again? When will I be able to work again? I have been and will continue to be diligent about not letting those thoughts hang out for too long. I'm not going to listen to them and let them ruin this insanely beautiful experience that I'm having here. I will just keep waking up every day and acknowledging how unbelievably grateful I am to be here.
Xx-Rachael